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Upper Mustang Trek – Journey to the Last Forbidden Kingdom of Nepal

by Maxi

Introduction

The Upper Mustang Trek is one of Nepal’s most unique trekking experiences, often described as a journey into a hidden Himalayan kingdom. Located in the remote rain shadow of the Annapurna and Dhaulagiri ranges, Upper Mustang is a land of dramatic desert landscapes, ancient Tibetan culture, and centuries-old monasteries. Once known as the “Last Forbidden Kingdom,” the region was closed to foreigners until 1992, which helped preserve its authenticity and traditions.

Unlike other popular trekking routes in Nepal, the Upper Mustang Trek offers a blend of cultural discovery and scenic adventure, making it a dream destination for explorers who want to go beyond the usual Himalayan trails.

Why Choose the Upper Mustang Trek?

Trekkers are drawn to Upper Mustang not just for mountains, but for its rich culture and history:

  • The Walled City of Lo Manthang: The ancient capital of Mustang, with palaces, gompas, and narrow alleyways.
  • Unique Desert Landscapes: Red cliffs, caves, and barren valleys resembling Tibet rather than lush Nepalese hills.
  • Tibetan Buddhist Culture: Monasteries, chortens, prayer flags, and traditional festivals.
  • Off-the-Beaten-Path Experience: Fewer trekkers compared to Everest or Annapurna Base Camp.
  • Spiritual Connection: A chance to experience life in a place untouched by modern influence.

Best Time for Upper Mustang Trek

The region lies in the rain shadow of the Himalayas, so trekking is possible even during the monsoon.

  • Spring (March – May): Warm weather, clear skies, and beautiful landscapes.
  • Summer/Monsoon (June – August): Ideal for Upper Mustang since it gets very little rain. This is also when the famous Tiji Festival takes place in Lo Manthang.
  • Autumn (September – November): Stable weather, great visibility, and popular season.
  • Winter (December – February): Harsh cold; many lodges close and few trekkers attempt it.

Trek Duration and Route

The Upper Mustang Trek usually takes 12–14 days, depending on the starting point and itinerary.

Typical Route:

  1. Fly from Pokhara to Jomsom (2,720 m).
  2. Trek to Kagbeni (2,810 m), the gateway to Upper Mustang.
  3. Continue through villages such as Chele, Syanbochen, and Ghami.
  4. Reach Tsarang and then Lo Manthang (3,840 m), the capital of Mustang.
  5. Explore caves, monasteries, and royal palaces.
  6. Return via Dakmar and Samar, or take a jeep/flight back to Jomsom.

Some itineraries extend to Chhoser caves and Damodar Kunda Lake, both culturally and spiritually significant.

Difficulty Level

The trek is considered moderate. There are no technical climbs, but trekkers should be ready for:

  • Walking 5–7 hours per day.
  • High altitude (up to 4,200 m).
  • Dry, dusty trails with occasional strong winds.

Good fitness and previous trekking experience are recommended, but beginners with determination can also complete it.

Permits Required

Since Upper Mustang is a restricted area, special permits are mandatory:

  • Restricted Area Permit (RAP): USD $500 per person for the first 10 days; USD $50 for each additional day.
  • Annapurna Conservation Area Permit (ACAP): NPR 3,000 (about USD $25).
  • Trekkers must travel in groups of at least two people with a registered trekking agency and licensed guide.

Accommodation and Food

Upper Mustang has a well-established tea house trekking system:

  • Tea Houses & Lodges: Basic but comfortable, offering beds and simple meals.
  • Food: Traditional Nepali dal bhat, Tibetan dishes like thukpa (noodle soup), momo (dumplings), and yak-based dairy products.
  • Facilities: Limited electricity and Wi-Fi in villages; basic showers available.

Cost of the Trek

The cost of the Upper Mustang Trek is higher compared to other routes due to restricted permits:

  • Permits: Around USD $525+ per person.
  • Guided trek packages: USD $1,800 – $3,000 depending on group size and services.
  • Extras: Personal expenses, snacks, charging, and tips for guides/porters.

Major Highlights of Upper Mustang Trek

  1. Lo Manthang (The Walled City): The spiritual and cultural heart of Mustang.
  2. Tiji Festival: A colorful three-day celebration with masked dances depicting the triumph of good over evil.
  3. Monasteries and Caves: Centuries-old gompas and sky caves carved into cliffs.
  4. Unique Landscapes: Eroded cliffs, canyons, and barren valleys resembling a desert plateau.
  5. Local Culture: Interaction with Mustang’s people, who still preserve Tibetan traditions and dialects.

Cultural and Spiritual Experience

Upper Mustang is deeply rooted in Tibetan Buddhism. Monasteries such as Thubchen and Jampa Lhakhang showcase ancient murals and relics. Villages still follow age-old traditions, and the polyandry practice (one woman married to brothers) can still be found in some communities.

For many trekkers, Upper Mustang is not just a physical journey, but a spiritual experience of timeless traditions and sacred landscapes.

Essential Packing List

  • Trekking boots and layered clothing.
  • Warm jacket and sleeping bag (nights are cold even in summer).
  • Hat, gloves, and sunglasses for sun and wind protection.
  • Water purification tablets or filter bottle.
  • First-aid kit with altitude medication.
  • Energy snacks, cash (no ATMs in Upper Mustang).

Tips for a Successful Upper Mustang Trek

  • Hire a licensed guide (mandatory for permits and navigation).
  • Train your body with cardio and strength exercises before the trek.
  • Acclimatize properly to avoid altitude sickness.
  • Respect local traditions and dress modestly near monasteries.
  • Carry a good camera – landscapes and cultural sites are extraordinary.

Conclusion

The Upper Mustang Trek  is not just another Himalayan trek – it is a cultural journey into an ancient kingdom where traditions remain untouched by time. From the mystical walled city of Lo Manthang to the surreal desert landscapes under the shadow of Annapurna and Dhaulagiri, every step offers a glimpse into a world rarely seen.

If you are looking for an off-the-beaten-path adventure that blends history, spirituality, and natural beauty, the Upper Mustang Trek is the perfect choice. This trek doesn’t just test your endurance – it transports you to a land where the past still lives in the present.

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